Sportster starter ring gear slippage and pulling the clutch as a unit.
I’ve been using my ‘89 sportster as a daily commuter for about 2 1/2 years, and while it’s had some problems, it’s never left me anywhere. I thought this had changed the other night, the starter had been making some strange noises when the bike was cold, but it had always started. But when I tried to leave work, it wouldn’t crank the motor. It made a noise that indicated that something was turning, but not the motor. Eventually I was able to push start it, and ended up taking the ‘55 to work for the rest of the week. Last weekend I pulled the primary cover.
When I hit the starter button, the ring gear turned, but not the rest of the clutch basket. It wasn’t obvious from the manual how the ring gear was attached, so I pulled the clutch as an assembly. The manual gives instructions that involve disassembling the clutch (using a special tool to compress the clutch spring), but not removing it as a unit. First I removed a snap ring and the clutch adjuster bolt and bearing.
Behind it was another snap ring, this was all that held the clutch on the transmission shaft, but I also needed to pull front primary sprocket. It’s held on by a nut that is torqued to 165 ft/lbs, so I used an air wrench to remove it (for all I know this is a terrible thing to do, maybe it wrecks the bearings or crank or something, but it’s what I did).
When I got the clutch off, it looked like the ring gear was just pressed on. I used an aluminum drift and hammer and gently tapped it off. It was fairly tight, but it was obvious that it had spun ruining both surfaces. Now I could have bought a new primary sprocket and ring gear, but left to my own devices I just rig stuff up. So I decided to just tack weld the gear on.
I spotted it in 4 places with the mig welder, then cleaned up the welds and any weld beads. The blue tape is covering up the alternator magnets, weld beads and grinding dust would stick to them like crazy. So far this fix has worked fine, but who knows, maybe the welds will cause the ring gear to crack and come apart, wrecking then entire motor and trans.
Thats exactly how my ring gear is held on. Was like that when I bought the bike. I’m having starter problems but it looks to be the over running clutch (bendix drive)
Comment by Tim Lincoln — January 2, 2007 @ 5:52 am
The clutch gets hot, as long as you let the weld cool down without quenching it, I don’t think you harmed the ring gear.
Unlikely 4 little spot welds will get hotter than a clutch in operation.
That nut on the front primary sprocket: I had a 92 Sporty I bought new, and at 3 or 4 thousand miles, I got this rattle like the engine was coming apart.
Yep, it was that nut, worked loose. I had my fat little brother stand on a breaker bar with socket….
It never came loose again.
Comment by farang — October 3, 2007 @ 2:02 am
Hi!
Good work putting up your experiences and photos, thanks for that.
I actually have a 1989 sportster xlh1200 myself, and want to change my primary cover for a chrome one. I bought a Clymer manual, but it seems to have vanished into thin air (!?).
Do you have any information on how to get the cover off ? Does the clutch cable need to come off before removing the cover ?
I’m really stuck on this thing right now, your imput would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance,
Vicar
The Netherlands
Comment by Vicar — April 22, 2008 @ 11:03 am
i am braking teeth on my ring gear 1989 sportster any tell me whats going on 4th gear now
Comment by sammy — June 9, 2009 @ 8:54 am
Hi Vicar.
You need to remove the inspection cover from the primary case 1st that sits in front of the clutch. A ratchet head into the cover will remove but to care damaging it. From there you need to use a flat blase screw driver and undo this in clockwise rotation, this afer you have removed the locking tab. Once the locking screws have been removed the cover should come off if all allen key nuts are removed.
Mike (AUS)
Comment by Mike — July 23, 2009 @ 3:38 pm